DESIGNER

Rohan Pariyar 2024 collection launch in Kolkata | Designer Rohan Pariyar launches 2024 couture collection in Kolkata’s Indian Museum at A Baroque Extravagance,

An era of extravagance in art, architecture and design, baroque
emerged as a distinct style in 17th and early 18th-century Europe, and was
characterised by dramatic silhouettes and elaborate ornamentation. From art and
design to music and fashion, the era was marked by emphasising grandeur,
emotional intensity, and a sense of movement. In fashion, baroque-inspired
designs often feature intricate patterns, rich fabrics and embellishments,
reflecting the opulence and theatricality of the time.

Fashion designer Rohan
Pariyar’s latest collection taps into this dramatic European era, and to launch
the couture collection, he collaborated with Alliance Francaise du Bengale and
the French Consulate in Kolkata to host ‘A Baroque Extravagance’ at the Indian
Museum, on February 3. While Pariyar presented 30 outfits from the line-up,
French consul general in Kolkata, Didier Talpain, conducted the Kolkata
Sinfonietta with pieces by Antonio Lucio Vivaldi. The event was held in
association with Alliance Francaise du Bengale.

The fashion story: baroque brilliance

Rohan Pariyar’s collection draws inspiration from Versailles’s baroque architecture, with each of the 30 looks named after royal women from Louis XV to Louis XIV’s courts

Rohan Pariyar’s collection draws inspiration from Versailles’s baroque architecture, with each of the 30 looks named after royal women from Louis XV to Louis XIV’s courts

In 17th and 18th-century France, the court of Louis XIV was the
pinnacle of French-baroque style. Rohan took inspiration from the 17th-century
king and his Versailles residence to create his new collection of 35 corsets
that blend historical design with haute couture. The collection features over
1,000 yards of fabric, including brocade, silk, tulle, and organza,
meticulously embroidered by a team of 10 artisans. Motifs, drawn from
Versailles’ baroque architecture, feature in these lush corsets, and each of
the looks is named after and inspired by royal women from Louis XIV to Louis
XV’s courts. For the show, Rohan experimented with different silhouettes
inspired by the noblewomen’s gowns — from the voluminous robe á la française or
sacques, and the gathered polonaise to the more streamlined trumpet.

Designer Rohan Pariyar (centre) speaks after the show

Designer Rohan Pariyar (centre) speaks after the show

Speaking about the collection and show, Rohan said, “The collection of 30 looks is ‘Louis XIV’ but as individual looks, they have been inspired by the ladies of the court. Starting with his first love Marie Mancini, and Her Majesty Maria Theresa, to the king’s first official mistress Louise de La Vallière and so on. There are also the ladies of the court from the times of Louis XV and Louis XIV like Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette. Together these ladies and the Duke of Orléans have inspired the collection.”

The music story: Vivaldi vibes

Didier Talpain (right) conducts the performers of the ensemble, including John Halder, Promit Sarkar, Shovan Adhikari, Joseph Rozario, Punyo Halder, Poulami Ghosh, Om Prakash Roy, Dibyokamal Mitra, Somnath Makhal, Subhash Mondal and Sandip Halder

Didier Talpain (right) conducts the performers of the ensemble, including John Halder, Promit Sarkar, Shovan Adhikari, Joseph Rozario, Punyo Halder, Poulami Ghosh, Om Prakash Roy, Dibyokamal Mitra, Somnath Makhal, Subhash Mondal and Sandip Halder

The music of the evening was conducted by Didier Talpain as
the Kolkata Sinfonietta performed. Given the theme of the evening,
eminent Italian composer, virtuoso violinist, and baroque impresario Antonio
Lucio Vivaldi’s pieces were an apt choice. His extensive works include the
renowned Four Seasons, along with over 800 concertos and sacred
compositions.

The French consul general
in Kolkata, who has also been a classical music conductor for a long time, was
all praise for the evening. “It was lovely. This is what we people call a
crossover event. I have done something similar in the past with Western
classical music but it was the first time it was with a fashion show — a
fashion show that was connected to France. I didn’t have the time to enjoy the
show because I was concentrating on the music, but this is a very rare concept
of a show,” he said.

Snapshots from the evening

Swastika Mukherjee

Swastika Mukherjee

Swastika Mukherjee was present in the audience, looking as lovely as
ever. “I was excited, first because the show was happening in the Indian
Museum. When we travel abroad a lot of shows like this — which depict art and
culture — take place but it doesn’t happen much in our country. So it was good
to see such a collaboration. Rohan is a friend and I have seen him slogging for
three months, just constantly making corsets and these extravagant outfits. He
was very focused and waiting for D-day,” said the Bijoyar Pore actress.

Nicolas Facino (left) and Sayan Bhattacharya

Nicolas Facino (left) and Sayan Bhattacharya

Sayan Bhattacharya, deputy director of the Indian Museum (right) gave out mementos to all participating individuals in the show. Nicolas Facino (left), the director of Alliance Francaise du Bengale, was a collaborating partner. “Organising such events takes months of preparations but we also aim to build cultural bridges with local talents. Baroque art was created in Europe through art and culture but what’s interesting is that we have found some similarities with the era and the Bengali legacy,” said Facino.

Pinky Kenworthy orchestrated the choreography for this diverse cultural event

Pinky Kenworthy orchestrated the choreography for this diverse cultural event

The Mantosh family — Rebecca, Rapheal, Johanne and John — were in sync with the event’s theme

The Mantosh family — Rebecca, Rapheal, Johanne and John — were in sync with the event’s theme

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